Kazuki Kuraishi 与 Beinghunted 对谈

我在整理大学期间的资料时,发现了文件夹里有一段 Kazuki Kuraishi(仓石一树)的采访,是 2010 年的时候从百度百科存下来的。过了 10 年,发现这段采访竟然是出自 Beinghunted 的 Jörg Haas。

为什么这说呢?因为最近我在写另一篇 Dunk FRAGMENT DESIGN City Pack 的时候,从一些资料文章中了解到当时这款鞋在 The-Glade 网上店铺进行过发售,该店铺也就是 Jörg Haas 从他在 2001 年开设的博客 Beinghunted 发展而来的。 The-Glade 最终发展为位于柏林的店铺 Firmament,而 Beinghunted 也从曾经的博客转变为现在的创意机构,提供品牌策划等服务。

本文会贴上对谈的中文翻译(来自百度百科,虽然翻译比较生硬,但是理解不会有太大问题,我就保留原翻译,在这基础上做了一些修改和补充。)和英文原文。另外,这还有一篇 Jörg Haas 的采访,感兴趣可以阅读:
https://sneakers-magazine.com/jorg-haas-the-evolution-of-beinghunted/

While I was going through some archived files from my university years, I found a Doc file of an interview of Kazuki Kuraishi, the file was saved 10 years ago—in 2010, and just until a few days ago, I found out the interview was done by Jörg Haas of Beinghunted!

Recently I am collecting information for another article about Dunk FRAGMENT DESIGN City Pack, in some pieces of old news, it said online shop The-Glade was one of the stores releasing the shoes. When I typed the website to The-Glade, it redirected me to Beinghunted. So I messaged Beinghunted on Instagram, and had a very short conversation (2 messages) with Jörg Haas. And nowadays, The-Glade is developed into Berlin-based Firmament, and Beinghunted transformed from the original blog to a creative agency.

In this article, I will paste the interview texts here.

What’s more, here’s an interview of Jörg Haas:
https://sneakers-magazine.com/jorg-haas-the-evolution-of-beinghunted/

Original link to this interview on Beinghunted archived blog:
http://www.beinghunted.com/v40/features/2004/kazuki_kuraishi/

引子:

我们与仓石一树相遇在德国纽伦堡城外的一个小村庄里。他在这里干什么呢?什么事情让我们在这里不期而遇呢?看到这篇访谈的高级鞋迷可能已经猜出其中的原因了——这个小镇是 Herzogenaurach,而让我们和仓石能够“不期而遇”的原因是,仓石同样受雇于 adidas。我们都前来参观 adidas campus,工厂,还有对 adidas 04/05 秋冬新品的介绍活动。

我们相遇的第一眼就立刻对仓石所穿的彩虹蛇皮 super ape skate 留下了深刻的印象,就好象他自己在介绍“它是我设计的”。OK,在用过一顿正餐后,我们在餐桌上开始聊起了他的工作和他的主顾同样也是他的密友:*A Bathing Ape, Wtaps, Visvim, 和Neighborhood,这仅仅是一小部分。

当我们发现当晚没有纸笔随身时,我们决定再找一个机会跟他聊更多关于他的设计,方案,和他的顾主们的细节。

前奏:

在我们采访你之前你知道 beinghunted 吗?如果是,你是怎么知道的?

我原来就知道 beinghunted 了,在我为 adidas 与 BAPE 的联营合作期间我的一位伦敦朋友向我提起过。

在东京你最喜欢去哪掏货,或者别的城市?

原宿(Harajuku)和代官山(Daikanyama),几乎所有你想找的衣服和球鞋都可以在这找到。

背景:

你来自哪个城市,你在日本以外的国家居住过吗?

我出生在东京,高中毕业后我去了美国的克罗拉多,因为我想更认真地继续我在滑雪板和山地车上的兴趣,后来我决定去纽约学习设计。

说说你接受过的正规教育?

我在纽约视觉艺术学校学习了电脑美术设计。当我回到日本,我开始为 NIGO(我以前就认识了)的 BAPE 做美术设计师。

为什么会决定去纽约学习?

起初我是想学习时尚设计所以我去纽约想寻找一所有名的好学校。此外,纽约也是我最喜欢的城市之一。

纽约的什么地方是你最喜欢的?她和东京在什么地方有显著的区别?

纽约有很多的艺廊让人惊奇,我喜欢现代艺术。所以这些画廊博物馆成为了我每天最喜爱的去处。作为一个学生。我没有很多的钱来花消,因此免费欣赏所有这些奇妙的艺术品成为一个重要的经历,而且对我今天成为设计师也大有影响。东京跟纽约的不同?可能是在东京对艺术的兴趣要少一些。

你与很多具有影响力的日本品牌都有关系-这种关系是怎么发展的?

能拥有这些朋友是我的幸运。像这样的好朋友,我说几个,UK adidas 的GARY,Ian Brown,Neighborhood 的陇泽申介,visvim 主脑 hiroki,还有 DJ/制作人藤原浩。在这个大而固定的关系网中,我有机会为不同的有影响力的品牌工作,这是让我十分感激的。

通过你的工作你结识了很多有趣的人们。在这些人里有没有你特别愿意碰面的?他是谁?为什么?

我见过许多有趣的人但是我基本每天都要见藤原,我实际上和他共用他的办公室(他让我跟他共用),因此我们每天什么事都讨论。藤原本人和我们所一起度过的时间对我来说很重要而且很受鼓舞。

工作:

你的灵感来自何处?

我的灵感来自现代艺术和音乐特别是英伦摇滚。当我寻找想法或是消沉的时候,我试图离开日本,去纽约和伦敦。

如果你可以坐时间机器倒流旅行,在艺术上你会选择哪个时期?你想与哪位艺术家见面?

我会选择当 Peter Saville 为 club Hacienda, Manchester 设计海报的那个时期。我想看他是怎样设计每个作品的,他是个设计师,但是他的作品却完全是艺术!

过去的十年,电脑在相当大的程度上改变了美术设计这个职业,越来越少的人用纸笔进行设计,你呢?

现在如果使用 Mac 谁都可以成为设计师,但是每个人表达事物的方法都是不同的。比如,当你设计 T 恤时,标签和图案的位置可以改变整体的效果。我在自己的设计中想尝试的是融合类似(纸笔设计)和数码。比如,我会用电脑把我手写的东西复制出来,是它表现得更加密集和复杂。

你是怎样为像 Neighborhood 这样的客户工作的-在设计过程中是合作完成还是从头至尾都留给你完全的创作自由?

当我被邀请参与设计,我会在前期提出我的概念和图象,但是之后就全权由我自己完成。

你是怎样为 visivm 提出民族风的 logo 概念的呢?

Hiroki 对这个设计概念有着一个很明确的映像,因此我就试着跟随他的视角所呈现的幻象去设计。他对我设计出的 logo 很兴奋,这让我十分高兴。当你跟你所喜欢的人一起合作时往往可以带来最好的结果!

你是怎样参与到 BAPE x adidas 的联营合作中的呢?

如果没有来自 UK adidas 的 Gary,这个方案是不可能实现的。Ian Brown 把我介绍给 Gary,而且我们保持着良好的联系。我们想立刻去做一个联营系列–结果大家都知道了。

作为一名设计师你站在 BAPE 与 adidas 中间。你如何处理这两个方面?有什么重大情况吗?

BAPE 的 NIGO 和 adidas 的 Dean 都很尊重我的球鞋设计和对球鞋的激情。我只是简单的设计了我想穿的,而且他们都同意了。

在 Neighborhood 背后的设计哲学是什么?

Neighborhood 引领了过去10年的街头流行局面,Neighborhood 的品牌哲学是引入注重显著的细节,他的态度是对时尚流行的“不妥协”,从而得到了世界上的创作者和核心 fans 们深信.

如果让你从自己的设计中选4样,你会选哪4样?它们的故事和它们是如何发展的?

当然是 BAPE x adidas 鞋,ape x UNKLE (jacket, T-shirt, shoes),Highlander(Neighborhood x Wtaps x me)格织系列 ,Visvim x Zucca shoes ,它们都是合作产品,但是都是有机的.我没有自己的品牌,所以我选了它们.

你的工作室什么样?

我刚才曾经提过,我在藤原的工作室租用了一个空间.他有很多书籍!艺术的,音乐的,学生协会示范文件,所有这些书我都想阅读,这就像我的私人图书馆。

从事设计过程中你喜欢听什么类型的音乐?

英伦吉他乐队

结束语:

下班后有什么消遣?

参观艺廊,博物馆和看电影。然而有时这样也是”工作”,所以花些时间跟某些你喜欢的人在一起是最好的。

目前你最喜欢的5样物品是什么?

idiom 的新服装和滑雪板
Neighborhood 的新品
visvim 的秋冬服饰和鞋
Neighborhood 和 Fragment 的合作产品
Visvim 和 Zucca合作鞋 

有什么评价/补充/想法?

很感谢你呀 Jörg 给我做了那么长的采访(开玩笑口吻)!
很期待不久后能在某个地方再次相逢。

你觉得我们下一个应该采访谁呢?

或许应该是 Hiroshi Fujiwara(藤原浩),或者 Neighborhood 的 Shinsuke Takizawa(泷泽伸介),再或者 adidas UK 的 Gary(全球娱乐推广总负责人)。

Introduction

Of all places in the world, we met Kazuki in a small town just outside of Nuremberg/Germany. And what was he doing there? And what coincidence brought us together…? The sneaker professors among you might have already guessed it – the town is Herzogenaurach and the ‘coincidence’ which had invited us there and also employs Kazuki is adidas. The occasion – a visit to the adidas campus, factory, and a presentation of the new adidas lines for fall/winter ’04/’05 (full report is still due…).

What had caught our eye immediately and gave us a very impressive introduction were Kazuki’s rainbow-snakeskin adidas Super Ape Skates and his accompanying statement – “I designed them”. Ok… Over the course of a fine dinner we got to chat a bit about his work and his clients who are all also his close friends: *A Bathing Ape, Wtaps, Visvim, or Neighborhood, to name only a few of the Japanese chapter.

As we didn’t have pen and paper ready at that evening, we decided to catch up with Kazuki later on talk in more detail about graphic design, his projects, and the people he works for. One usually does not get to hear much about the designers behind abovementioned labels – so here is our feature on one very productive one…

Prelude

Did you know Beinghunted before this interview? If so, how did you get to know about it?

I knew about Beinghunted before. My friends in London mentioned it when I worked for the adidas and BAPE collaboration project.

What are your favourite hunting areas in Tokyo, or any other place?

Harajuku and Daikanyama area. Any clothes and sneakers that you are looking for will most likely be found in this area

Background

Where are you from and have you lived outside of Japan?

I was born in Tokyo. After graduating from high-school I went to Colorado, USA because I wanted to pursue my interest of snowboarding and mountain biking more seriously and then I decided to move to New York to study design.

What was your formal training/education?

I studied computer graphic design at New York School of Visual Arts. When I came back to Japan I started to work for NIGO (whom I knew from before) as a graphic designer for BAPE.

Why did you decide to go to New York to study?

I originally wanted to study fashion design so I went to New York in search for a good and reputable school.
Besides, New York is one of my favorite cities of all.

What did you like most about living in the Big Apple? What differences to Tokyo were most apparent?

There are many art galleries in New York which is amazing. I am fond of contemporary art so the gallery museum was a favourite daily hangout place for me. As a student, I didn’t have much money to spend so to see all these wonderful pieces of art for free was such a great experience and very influential for who I became as a designer/creator today. The differences between NYC and Tokyo? Perhaps the less interest in art in Tokyo.

You are involved with many of the most influential Japanese brands – how did these relationships evolve?

I am just lucky to have all these friends. Such great friends include, just to name a few, Gary from UK adidas, Ian Brown, Shin from Neighborhood, Visvim’s Hiroki, and DJ/producer Hiroshi Fujiwara. From this tremendous and solid network I had the opportunity to work for various and most influential brands and I am very thankful.

Through your work you’ve met a lot of interesting people. Are there any that you’re particularly fond of having met/dealt with? Who would that be and why?

I have met a lot of interesting people but I see Hiroshi (Fujiwara) on a daily basis. I am actually sharing (he lets me share) his office so we talk about everything everyday. Hiroshi and the time we have been spending are very important and inspiring.

Work

Where do you get inspiration for your work?

I get my inspiration from contemporary art and music especially UK Rock. I tried to get out of Japan, when I am looking for ideas or in slump, to NYC and London.

If you could travel back in time – which period would you choose in regards to art/design? Which artist would you like to meet in person?

I would choose a period when Peter Saville designed posters for the club Hacienda, Manchester. I would love to see how he designed each work. He is a designer but his work is definitely art.

Over the past decade, computers have changed the profession of graphic design considerably. Fewer and fewer people actually use pen and paper anymore. How do you work?

It is so true that if you use Mac, anyone can be a designer, such is the current time. But everyone has a different way of expressing things. For example, when you design T-shirts, the positioning of logo or artwork can change the whole look. What I attempt to do with my design is to fuse analog (pen and paper) and digital. E.g. What I wrote on my hand I duplicated on top purposely using computer graphics to make it appear more dense and intricate.

How do you work for a client like Neighborhood – is there a lot of interaction in the design process or do they leave you complete creative freedom from beginning to end?

When I am asked to design, I will tell my image and concept at the early stage but after that it is all left up to me.

How did you come up with the concept for the folklore logo for Visivm?

Hiroki had a very clear image for this design concept so I tried to follow his vision with my design. He was very excited with the design which made me very happy. It always brings the best result when you work with someone you like.

How did you did you get involved with the BAPE x adidas collaboration?

Without Gary from adidas UK, this project would not have been possible. Ian Brown introduced me to Gary and we connected very well. We thought of working on collaboration immediately and the result – we all know.

As a designer you stood in the middle between BAPE and adidas. How did you handle both sides? Any momentous situations?

Both NIGO from BAPE and Dean from adidas respect my design and passion for sneakers. I just simply made what I would like to wear and they both let me do so.

What is the design philosophy behind Neighborhood?

Neighborhood has been leading the street fashion scene for the last 10 years. Neighborhood’s brand philosophy is to invest a great deal particularly in details and its brand attitude “No Compromise” to fashion trends has gained it a deep trust and core fans from the top creators worldwide.

If you could pick only four of your designs for your portfolio – which ones would it be. What’s the story to those designs, how did they develop?

Of course ape x adidas shoes, ape x UNKLE (jacket, T-shirt, shoes), Highlander (Neighborhood x Wtaps x me) Tartan fabric series, Visvim x Zucca shoes. These are all collaborations but they are very organic. I don’t have my own brand so I picked these.

What does your office/workspace look like?

As mentioned previously, I am renting a space in Hiroshi’s office. He has so many books! Art books, music books student-union demonstration documents, all the books I want to read are there as my personal library.

What kind of music do you listen do while designing?

UK guitar band!

What projects are you working on at the moment?

My most exciting project at this moment is the design I did for Visvim shoes for the Zucca’s Paris collection. I am very satisfied with the work and I cannot wait to see the sample!

What are your plans for your new agency “Two 7s Clash”?

Nothing has been decided for this as of yet… just the name.

Finale

What are your pastime activities after work?

Visiting galleries, museums and checking out movies. However this becomes “work” at times, so spending the time with someone you like is simply the best.

What are your 5 most beloved items at the moment?

* iDiom’s new apparel line and snowboard.
* Neighborhood’s new collection.
* Visvim’s Fall/Winter apparel and shoes.
* Neighborhood and Fragment collection
* Visvim and Zucca shoes

Any comments/shouts/hints…?

Thank you very much to you Jörg for this very long interview. (joking)
Looking forward to re-unite again somewhere soon!

Who should we interview next?

Maybe Hiroshi Fujiwara, or Shinsuke Takizawa from Neighborhood or Gary from adidas UK (Head of the Global Entertainment Promotion).

November 2004

Beinghunted says thanks for the interview and all the best for the future!